All About GOTS: The Gold Standard of Organic Textile Certification

In a marketplace flooded with sustainability claims, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) stands out as one of the most rigorous and widely respected textile certifications. For brands, suppliers, and consumers alike, GOTS represents a comprehensive benchmark for organic integrity, social responsibility, and environmental stewardship across the textile supply chain.

But what does GOTS really mean? How does it impact producers in India? And what are the real-world implications of obtaining this certification?

A Brief History

GOTS was developed in the early 2000s by four international organizations—OTA (USA), IVN (Germany), Soil Association (UK), and JOCA (Japan)—to harmonize various organic textile standards that had emerged globally. The goal: a unified, verifiable system that covered not just raw material but the entire processing chain.

The first version of the standard was released in 2005, and it has been continually updated to reflect evolving best practices. GOTS v7.0 is the most recent edition (as of 2023), and includes even stricter criteria around chemical inputs, waste treatment, and social responsibility.

What GOTS Certifies

GOTS applies to the full supply chain—from harvesting of raw fibres to finished garment production. To bear the GOTS label, a textile product must contain at least 70% certified organic natural fibres (or 95% for the “organic” label grade).

Key certification criteria include:

Organic farming: Verified by third-party bodies such as Control Union or Ecocert
Processing and Manufacturing: No toxic heavy metals, no formaldehyde, no GMOs, and strict wastewater treatment protocols
Dyeing and Printing: Must use low-impact or GOTS-approved dyes
Social Criteria: Compliance with ILO (International Labour Organisation) norms regarding wages, child labor, working hours, and health & safety
Traceability: Complete transparency from fibre to finished product

The Problem GOTS Was Designed to Solve

Prior to GOTS, there were multiple certifications for organic fibres and many did not cover what happened after harvesting. Organic cotton, for example, could be processed in facilities using harsh chemicals, harmful dyes, and unethical labor practices—and still be marketed as “organic.”

GOTS closes this loophole by introducing holistic certification. It ensures that:

Organic farming is preserved through to the final product
Workers are treated fairly across the supply chain
Environmental impacts are minimized in all stages

GOTS in India: Prevalence, Challenges, and Growth

India is the world’s largest producer of organic cotton, and a global leader in GOTS-certified facilities. As of 2023, more than 2000 facilities across spinning, dyeing, printing, and garmenting in India are GOTS certified.

Why India?

Favourable agro-climatic zones for cotton cultivation
Established organic farming communities (especially in Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, Odisha)
Strong export demand from Europe and North America

Challenges:

Organic farming yields are typically lower than conventional cotton
Upfront certification costs and audits can be difficult for smallholder farmers
Traceability and recordkeeping across fragmented supply chains is still a hurdle

Who Should Obtain GOTS Certification?

Unlike OEKO-TEX®, GOTS applies to the entire supply chain. Each stakeholder must be individually certified:

Farmers: For producing certified organic cotton
Ginners, Spinners, and Weavers: For maintaining fibre traceability and using compliant machinery
Dye Houses and Printers: For using approved chemicals and managing effluents
Cut-and-Sew Manufacturers: For fair labor practices and proper documentation
Fashion Brands: To label and sell GOTS-certified garments

The Certification Process in India

Application: Register with a GOTS-approved certification body (e.g., Control Union, Ecocert, ICEA)
Pre-Audit Preparation: Prepare records of materials, chemical inputs, supplier compliance, and internal processes
On-Site Audit: Certification body verifies factory processes, social criteria, and environmental management
Lab Testing: For dyes, effluents, and residual chemicals
Certification and Annual Renewal: Certification is valid for one year and must be renewed through updated audits

Immediate and Long-Term Benefits

For Producers:

Easier access to premium markets and international buyers
Higher product value and improved supply chain reputation
Structured internal systems for environmental and labor compliance

For Brands:

Greater brand credibility and differentiation
Compliance with EU and US market regulations
Marketing leverage in sustainability-driven campaigns

For Consumers:

Confidence that the product is both environmentally and socially responsible
Reduced exposure to residual chemicals
Support for ethical labor and sustainable farming

Benefits for the Indian Supply Chain

GOTS encourages improvements across Indian supply chains by:

Promoting regenerative farming and reducing pesticide reliance
Encouraging water treatment and chemical management
Elevating labor conditions in informal sectors
Supporting traceability systems that can be scaled up nationally

A Critique of GOTS

While GOTS is thorough, it's not without limitations:

Cost Barrier: The process can be expensive, especially for fragmented or decentralized producers
Verification Gaps: In regions with low regulatory oversight, spot checks can be inconsistent
Organic Conversion: Switching to organic farming takes 2–3 years, which deters some farmers due to interim yield drops

Nonetheless, GOTS remains one of the most holistic and demanding certifications available.

At The Rugged Soul, we work with certified suppliers and mills that meet rigorous global standards—including GOTS—whenever possible. While not every product in our line is GOTS-certified end-to-end, we are committed to transparency and traceability across our production chain. To us, the GOTS standard aligns deeply with our values of craftsmanship, sustainability, and respect for the hands and soil behind every piece.

GOTS certification goes beyond greenwashing. It’s a rigorous, transparent, and comprehensive system that links soil health to factory floors and ultimately to your skin. For anyone invested in authentic sustainability, GOTS offers a rare level of trust.

By understanding and supporting such standards, we not only elevate our personal choices—but uplift an entire ecosystem of growers, workers, and conscious creators.

Coming Up: Stay tuned for our deep dives into other key certifications like Fairtrade Cotton, OEKO-TEX®, and more.