The Hidden Threat: PFAs in Clothing

PFAs—short for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances—have earned a reputation as "forever chemicals." They're used in everything from cookware to firefighting foam. But their quiet infiltration into the fashion industry, especially in water-resistant and stain-repellent garments, presents a growing concern for both personal health and environmental safety.

What Are PFAs?

PFAs are a large group of synthetic chemicals prized for their ability to resist heat, water, and oil. In clothing, they are often applied as coatings to provide features such as:

Water and stain resistance (e.g., DWR-treated outerwear)
Wrinkle resistance
Enhanced durability in performance fabrics

Popular in activewear, outerwear, and uniforms, PFAs have been in widespread use since the 1950s.

Why Are PFAs Dangerous?

PFAs are called "forever chemicals" because they do not break down naturally in the environment—and they accumulate in the human body over time. Scientific studies have linked long-term PFA exposure to:

Hormonal disruption
Immune system suppression
Liver damage
Increased risk of cancers (kidney, testicular)
Reduced fertility and developmental delays in children

According to research published in Environmental Health Perspectives, exposure to certain PFAs is associated with increased cholesterol levels, altered liver enzymes, and heightened risk of thyroid disease. A comprehensive review in The Lancet further highlights their link to endocrine disruption and carcinogenic potential.

Worse, these chemicals are released not only during manufacturing but also through everyday wear and washing. They can leach into skin or shed into wastewater, contaminating rivers, oceans, and even drinking water supplies.

How PFAs Make Their Way into Clothing

Most PFAs enter the fashion supply chain during the finishing stage of textile production. Manufacturers apply them as surface coatings to improve water, oil, or dirt resistance—commonly labeled as "durable water repellent" (DWR) finishes.

Since many clothing brands outsource production, they often rely on third-party factories and textile mills, where PFAs may be added without full oversight. Countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, and China are major hubs for global apparel manufacturing, and many use PFA-based processes due to cost-effectiveness and lack of stringent local controls.

In India, PFAs are not currently regulated under a comprehensive national policy for textiles, though studies have detected their presence in domestic and imported garments. However, the Central Pollution Control Board (CPCB) is actively researching hazardous substances in consumer goods, and a policy dialogue on restricting PFAs in textiles is gaining momentum.

As of now, India lacks specific labelling requirements for garments treated with PFAs, making it difficult for consumers to make informed choices.

PFAs in Outdoor Jackets

Outdoor jackets are among the most common garments where PFAs are found due to their multifunctional performance requirements. These chemicals are typically introduced through:

Membranes: Fluoropolymer-based membranes like PTFE (commonly used in 2- or 3-layer waterproof-breathable systems) are often treated with PFAs for enhanced durability and water shedding.
Surface DWR coatings: Applied on both natural and synthetic outer layers to make water bead off the fabric surface.
Synthetic materials: Polyester and nylon fabrics, even before additional coatings, can contain trace amounts of PFAs from their production and finishing processes.

While these features improve water resistance, they also increase the risk of environmental and dermal PFA exposure—particularly problematic in garments intended for rugged, prolonged outdoor use.

Safer Alternatives: PFA-Free Water Resistance

Innovations in textile chemistry are slowly offering safer solutions. PFA-free water repellents now use natural-based fatty acids, dendrimer structures, or silica-based technologies to create hydrophobic effects without persistent pollutants.

These newer finishes achieve:

Comparable water and stain resistance without long-term toxicity
Biodegradability or low environmental persistence
Improved skin safety during wear

When choosing garments, look for certifications that indicate safer chemical practices:

OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 (free from harmful substances)
bluesign® APPROVED (verified safe chemistry)
ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) compliant processes

What You Can Do

Read labels carefully. Look for terms like "fluorocarbon-free," "PFC-free," or "non-toxic DWR."
Support transparent brands that disclose their chemical finishing processes.
Use PFA-free sprays to re-waterproof natural fabric garments when needed.
Wash clothing less frequently and at lower temperatures, reducing wear on finishes and minimizing chemical leaching.

The Rugged Soul Commitment

At The Rugged Soul, we are actively exploring PFA-free waterproofing technologies that align with our use of natural fabrics. Our commitment is to keep garments both functional and non-toxic—for you and for the ecosystems they touch.

The promise of waterproof jackets and stain-free pants shouldn't come at the cost of your health—or the planet’s. As awareness grows, the fashion industry is slowly waking up to the dangers of PFAs. Until regulations catch up, it’s up to informed consumers and responsible brands to lead the way toward safer, smarter alternatives.

Footnotes

Sunderland, E.M. et al. (2019). "A Review of the Pathways of Human Exposure to PFAS and Potential Health Effects." Environmental Health Perspectives. https://doi.org/10.1289/EHP4090
Grandjean, P., & Clapp, R. (2015). "Perfluorinated Alkyl Substances: Emerging Insights into Health Risks." New Solutions: A Journal of Environmental and Occupational Health Policy. https://doi.org/10.2190/NS.25.2.e
Central Pollution Control Board (India). "Hazardous Substances in Consumer Products." (2022 Report Draft).